Discussion:
1997 Deville, Adding coolant to cooling system
(too old to reply)
I'mlost
2008-02-18 00:13:33 UTC
Permalink
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system. Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find. No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.
Don Schmidt
2008-02-18 02:11:27 UTC
Permalink
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
Post by I'mlost
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system. Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find. No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.
I'mlost
2008-02-18 02:51:19 UTC
Permalink
Post by Don Schmidt
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system.  Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find.   No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No foamy oil (water in oil), Have not noticed any water from
exhaust. Temp. has been fluctuating for a while now. goes up to 223
when air is off and second fan comes on it cools down to around 200%
Thanks Don.
Certainly
2008-02-19 03:44:54 UTC
Permalink
Post by Don Schmidt
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system.  Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find.   No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No foamy oil (water in oil),   Have not noticed any water from
exhaust.  Temp. has been fluctuating for a while now. goes up to 223
when air is off and second fan comes on it cools down to around 200%
Thanks Don.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Check for dexcool crust around the water pump housing(crossover) at
the junctions with the head and block on both ends. They are a bit
hard to view, but can be seen. My other recommendation would be a
block test, these engines tend to loosen at the head gaskets due to
thread failure in the block. Any cold misfiring at startup?
I'mlost
2008-02-20 03:47:47 UTC
Permalink
Post by Certainly
Post by Don Schmidt
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system.  Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find.   No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No foamy oil (water in oil),   Have not noticed any water from
exhaust.  Temp. has been fluctuating for a while now. goes up to 223
when air is off and second fan comes on it cools down to around 200%
Thanks Don.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Check for dexcool crust around the water pump housing(crossover) at
the junctions with the head and block on both ends. They are a bit
hard to view, but can be seen. My other recommendation would be a
block test, these engines tend to loosen at the head gaskets due to
thread failure in the block. Any cold misfiring at startup?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I'm not sure what dexcool crust is but will take a look when the rain
stops. Not sure how to do a block test ether. not having any
misfiring that is noticeable. I did change the radiator cap today to
a 16 lb. cap. that is what is called for in the manual. It had a 14
lb. cap and it was weak. I did mix the anti freeze with out realizing
it. I have red (five year) and put in about a quart of the green,
(three year). they should not be mixed, could that have anything to do
with it loosing water?
Certainly
2008-02-21 04:04:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by I'mlost
Post by Certainly
Post by Don Schmidt
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system.  Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find.   No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No foamy oil (water in oil),   Have not noticed any water from
exhaust.  Temp. has been fluctuating for a while now. goes up to 223
when air is off and second fan comes on it cools down to around 200%
Thanks Don.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Check for dexcool crust around the water pump housing(crossover) at
the junctions with the head and block on both ends. They are a bit
hard to view, but can be seen. My other recommendation would be a
block test, these engines tend to loosen at the head gaskets due to
thread failure in the block. Any cold misfiring at startup?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I'm not sure what dexcool crust is but will take a look when the rain
stops.  Not sure how to do a block test ether. not having any
misfiring that is noticeable.  I did change the radiator cap today to
a 16 lb. cap. that is what is called for in the manual. It had a 14
lb. cap and it was weak.  I did mix the anti freeze with out realizing
it.  I have red (five year) and put in about a quart of the green,
(three year). they should not be mixed, could that have anything to do
with it loosing water?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Dexcool crust is just dried orange coolant residue, The block tester
is a special tool, available at NAPA or other sources. It is filled to
a predetermined level with a special fluid and placed over the
radiator opening(some fluid may need to be removed to prevent sucking
up coolant). Air is drawn through the fluid with a bulb that is
included, or positive cooling system pressure, and the fluid reacts
with the presence of combustion gases and changes colors. The fluid is
usually blue, changes from green to yellow determined by the severity
of the internal leakage. The mixing of the green into the long life
should not contribute to any fluid loss, the fluid is either leaking,
or being consumed internally. My feeling at this point is, if you
don't see any external leaks, you might consult someone and tell them
you just want a block test. It can also be done with an exhaust gas
analyzer held at the radiator opening.
I'mlost
2008-02-23 13:59:43 UTC
Permalink
Post by Certainly
Post by I'mlost
Post by Certainly
Post by Don Schmidt
Maybe ready for a new thermostat.
Crankcase oil foamy?
Moisture coming from the tail pipe?
--
Don
Vancouver, USA
About every 1000 miles I have to add coolant to the system.  Checked
all hoses and around water pump, no leaks that I can find.   No excess
water collecting under car. Any suggestions.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
No foamy oil (water in oil),   Have not noticed any water from
exhaust.  Temp. has been fluctuating for a while now. goes up to 223
when air is off and second fan comes on it cools down to around 200%
Thanks Don.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Check for dexcool crust around the water pump housing(crossover) at
the junctions with the head and block on both ends. They are a bit
hard to view, but can be seen. My other recommendation would be a
block test, these engines tend to loosen at the head gaskets due to
thread failure in the block. Any cold misfiring at startup?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I'm not sure what dexcool crust is but will take a look when the rain
stops.  Not sure how to do a block test ether. not having any
misfiring that is noticeable.  I did change the radiator cap today to
a 16 lb. cap. that is what is called for in the manual. It had a 14
lb. cap and it was weak.  I did mix the anti freeze with out realizing
it.  I have red (five year) and put in about a quart of the green,
(three year). they should not be mixed, could that have anything to do
with it loosing water?- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Dexcool crust is just dried orange coolant residue, The block tester
is a special tool, available at NAPA or other sources. It is filled to
a predetermined level with a special fluid and placed over the
radiator opening(some fluid may need to be removed to prevent sucking
up coolant). Air is drawn through the fluid with a bulb that is
included, or positive cooling system pressure, and the fluid reacts
with the presence of combustion gases and changes colors. The fluid is
usually blue, changes from green to yellow determined by the severity
of the internal leakage. The mixing of the green into the long life
should not contribute to any fluid loss, the fluid is either leaking,
or being consumed internally. My feeling at this point is, if you
don't see any external leaks, you might consult someone and tell them
you just want a block test. It can also be done with an exhaust gas
analyzer held at the radiator opening.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Thanks for the info. It looks like this is getting over my head so I
have made an appointment at the auto shop to have it checked out. I
did get what I think is good advice on this site but I'm limited in
both knowledge and ability so I must pay for what I do not know or can
not do. Isn't that always the way???

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