Need help-advice on power window.

[Bob D.]

1994 DeVille. We had shade film on all door windows.

The Drivers door developed a wrinkle in the film and one day my wife ran
that window down. When the wrinkle went down below the lip on the rubber
seals at the bottom of the window channel on the top edge of the window
opening, the window would only come back to where the wrinkle stopped it.
The wrinkle as still down below the lip.

When she got home and told me, I went out and GENTLY pulled up on the window
while hitting the UP on the power window switch. As soon as I had moved the
glass up only slightly, the window continued up and closed.

We never ran the window up and down at all for about a week and then
yesterday when we took it in to have the film replaced, the window would not
move in either direction, no sound from the window motor at all. ALL of the
other 3 windows still work properly so it's not a fuse/relay problem I don't
think.

When the repairman pulled the door panel, he tapped on the motor lightly
with a small hammer and said sometimes he had had motors that stuck and that
this would cause them to start operating again. It didn't in this case.

My question is this: Is there such a thing as a limit microswitch or
something on these windows that I could have thrown out of sync by pulling
up on that window? Is it more likely a defective motor that is causing the
problem?

Any other ideas or suggestions before I go out a buy a new motor?

Thanks in advance for all help.

Bob...

[p***@webtv.net]

Post by Bob D.
Is there such a thing as a limit
microswitch or something on these
windows that I could have thrown out of
sync by pulling up on that window? Is it
more likely a defective motor that is
causing the problem?

Each window motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. When the
switch is held on too long with a window obstructed, the CB will Open
the circuit and will reset automatically as it cools.

The reversible motors are controlled by two normally-closed and grounded
switches. SO.... there is a Hot circuit at each motor when the key is
On or Acc position. The Up/Down sw is controlling the reversible
grounds in the motor. Usually what goes wrong is a faulty switch.
Corrosion/dirt causes a failure at the little brass contacts to make
good contact. Cleaning the contacts is not an option, although I
tried....to no avail. Replacement of the MSA(master sw assembly) or the
individual sw is needed.

If you are 'electrically inclined' I can email the diagnostic tree.

Dave S(Texas)

[S t e v e]

And they say their ain't know smart WebTVers. Nice job, Dave.

Steve B. (2001 STS)

Post by p***@webtv.net

Post by Bob D.
Is there such a thing as a limit
microswitch or something on these
windows that I could have thrown out of
sync by pulling up on that window? Is it more
likely a defective motor that is
causing the problem?

Each window motor is protected by a built-in
circuit breaker. When the switch is held on too
long with a window obstructed, the CB will
Open the circuit and will reset automatically as
it cools.
The reversible motors are controlled by two
normally-closed and grounded switches.
SO.... there is a Hot circuit at each motor
when the key is On or Acc position. The
Up/Down sw is controlling the reversible
grounds in the motor. Usually what goes
wrong is a faulty switch. Corrosion/dirt causes
a failure at the little brass contacts to make
good contact. Cleaning the contacts is not an
option, although I tried....to no avail.
Replacement of the MSA(master sw
assembly) or the individual sw is needed.
If you are 'electrically inclined' I can email the
diagnostic tree.
Dave S(Texas)

[Bob D.]

YES, please send the diagnostics

Bob...

Post by p***@webtv.net

Post by Bob D.
Is there such a thing as a limit
microswitch or something on these
windows that I could have thrown out of
sync by pulling up on that window? Is it
more likely a defective motor that is
causing the problem?

Each window motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. When the
switch is held on too long with a window obstructed, the CB will Open
the circuit and will reset automatically as it cools.
The reversible motors are controlled by two normally-closed and grounded
switches. SO.... there is a Hot circuit at each motor when the key is
On or Acc position. The Up/Down sw is controlling the reversible
grounds in the motor. Usually what goes wrong is a faulty switch.
Corrosion/dirt causes a failure at the little brass contacts to make
good contact. Cleaning the contacts is not an option, although I
tried....to no avail. Replacement of the MSA(master sw assembly) or the
individual sw is needed.
If you are 'electrically inclined' I can email the diagnostic tree.
Dave S(Texas)

[Bob D.]

Using this information, today I pulled the doorpanel and checked wires,
switches and the motor.

There was no "hot wire" checking with a tester at either any of the window
switches or at the motor on the front driver's door. This is the "AUTO" down
window.

I am pretty sure it is the solid brown wire on the switches and the motor
that is the "hot" wire.

I ran a jumper wire from the battery posts under the hood to the two pins on
the motor itself and when touched, the motor would "clunk" but the window
didn't move.

The rebuilt replacement motor is $45.00 and the switch assembly from
Cadillac is $210.00 and has to be ordered. Flat Rate Labor at Cadillac
Dealer is $95.00 an hour.
Can any of you sharp Techs out there give me some hints on what and how to
test to find out which of these is defective.

Is it possible that when I pulled the window up about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch
I could have thrown something out of phase since this is the "Auto" window?
Is there something between the switch and the motor to make it auto down?

Thanks for any help or suggestions. If you don't wish to reply here, send me
an email.

Bob...

Post by p***@webtv.net

Post by Bob D.
Is there such a thing as a limit
microswitch or something on these
windows that I could have thrown out of
sync by pulling up on that window? Is it
more likely a defective motor that is
causing the problem?

Each window motor is protected by a built-in circuit breaker. When the
switch is held on too long with a window obstructed, the CB will Open
the circuit and will reset automatically as it cools.
The reversible motors are controlled by two normally-closed and grounded
switches. SO.... there is a Hot circuit at each motor when the key is
On or Acc position. The Up/Down sw is controlling the reversible
grounds in the motor. Usually what goes wrong is a faulty switch.
Corrosion/dirt causes a failure at the little brass contacts to make
good contact. Cleaning the contacts is not an option, although I
tried....to no avail. Replacement of the MSA(master sw assembly) or the
individual sw is needed.
If you are 'electrically inclined' I can email the diagnostic tree.
Dave S(Texas)

[NickySantoro]

Post by Bob D.
1994 DeVille. We had shade film on all door windows.
The Drivers door developed a wrinkle in the film and one day my wife ran
that window down. When the wrinkle went down below the lip on the rubber
seals at the bottom of the window channel on the top edge of the window
opening, the window would only come back to where the wrinkle stopped it.
The wrinkle as still down below the lip.
When she got home and told me, I went out and GENTLY pulled up on the window
while hitting the UP on the power window switch. As soon as I had moved the
glass up only slightly, the window continued up and closed.
We never ran the window up and down at all for about a week and then
yesterday when we took it in to have the film replaced, the window would not
move in either direction, no sound from the window motor at all. ALL of the
other 3 windows still work properly so it's not a fuse/relay problem I don't
think.
When the repairman pulled the door panel, he tapped on the motor lightly
with a small hammer and said sometimes he had had motors that stuck and that
this would cause them to start operating again. It didn't in this case.
My question is this: Is there such a thing as a limit microswitch or
something on these windows that I could have thrown out of sync by pulling
up on that window? Is it more likely a defective motor that is causing the
problem?
Any other ideas or suggestions before I go out a buy a new motor?
Thanks in advance for all help.
Bob...

Best guess is that the strain on the motor killed the reed switch.
Scrape the tint off then buy a new motor on Ebay. It will be a
motor/gear drive combo. BTDT.
FWIW
YMMV